Entries from October 2008
After trying to get into the wrong house we arrived at my cousin Ian’s house in Cambridge – it was so lovely to see him (after a long time) and meet the whole family. We spent a lovely couple of lovely days there, playing with Katrina, Zeb, Mica and Amy (and all the pets)! We were kept right as to who to watch do handstands (Katrina), the boys made use of us to play tennis/rugby etc with and Amy made us laugh a lot! We also went for a walk one day to a high point in Cambridge so see some fab views so that was good.
Ian cooked us a fab meal one night and then the next night we went to his restaurant in Hamilton (Tables on the River) – which was amazing and yummy. We had a fab chat and some lovely vino so it was a great night.
We were sad to say bye to the Harris family but will definitely be popping in again when we drive past that way again.
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After leaving the bubbling mud of Rotorua, we headed off down to Taupo. We have left the exciting activities until later, when we are joined by our international band of merry travellers (and we didn’t fancy the Tongariro crossing in the snow). But we did managed a couple of nice days there. Taupo was our first experience of the Top10 holiday parks. It was very Hei-di-Hei but had everything you could possible imagine needing (and a bouncy castle). There is not a lot in the town of Taupo. They have a very spectacular Bungy but we had to forego that for the time being. We did go for a walk to the even more impressive Huka Falls. The Waikato river gets channelled into a really narrow gorge and is spewed out at high velocity. We also carried on a little further to a honey farm to taste some lovely (if expensive) honey and meade but we spent most of the walk marvelling at the colour of the river.
On Friday, we drove half-way to Waitomo. Due to the provincial rugby quarter finals, our route and timings were a little eratic. The weather was pretty good so we didn’t want to spend all day in the car so we stopped at a DOC site in the Pureora Forest. Completely isolated, on our own and with no more facilities than a drop toilet and a little stream, this was the perfect place to relax for an afternoon.
Saturday morning was a bit drizzly again but, no problem, we were going to spend the morning underground. We joined onto a tour to visit the Waitomo caves. The first was the Aranui cave where we got to see all the stalagmites and cool rock formations. Of course, it was quite touristy and they had used far too many spotlights which took away a bit of the natural atmosphere but it was spectacular nonetheless. Then we were taken into another cave to see the glowworms.
After a quick pie for lunch, we headed across the country to Mount Manganui in the Bay of Plenty for the rugby. It was totally out of our way but the only quarter final we could get to. Even with a quick stop at Mills Reef Winery on the way for a cheeky tasting, we still made it in plenty of time for kick off. The match itself was not all the great. Bay of Plenty got comprehensively beaten by Southland but we were amused by the mascot (a big fat bloke called Horri who spent the match giving sweets to kids).
The next morning the sun broke out for us and we went for a brisk walk around the volcano and sat on the beach for an hour before we needed to leave to go to Cambridge…
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We managed to get ourselves up early to get to Otara market for a look around (things apparently start to die down at 10amsih) – anyhow, after an hour of driving we gave up and came back to the campsite – we could not find it at all (we will have to go back next time we are in Auckland as we know where it is now)!
The rest of the day Stu enjoyed his birthday present from me the America’s Cup Sailing Experience in Auckland harbour – he got to sail and race the yachts they use for the America’s Cup. As we could not stretch to 2 people to do the race I filled my time on the internet in Auckland (sniff,. sniff)!
[edit Stu: it was an absolutely awesome day. Basically us paying passengers were doing all the manual work (grinding the handbikes) and some ex-pro racers were doing the more complicated stuff. It was really interesting to be on a boat while they are plotting tactics and trying to get the best of the other boat. Don't for a second think these guys were just out on a jolly; they are naturally competative. Anyway, we spent 3 hours racing round Auckland Harbour in 25 knott winds, dipping the rails and getting generally wet on multi-million dollar yachts. And I now want to learn how to sail properly!]
…Later on we went our for (another) meal which was lovely and managed to jump on a bus back to the campsite ( where we were entertained by the local friendly drunk who wanted to be our best friends)!
We did not stick around in Auckland so the next day we found ourselves hot footing it to Rotorura in the pouring rain! The day was not one of our best with us leaving the lights on in the van while we perused then selves of ‘Pak n Save’ thus resulting in a $80 call out fee for the AA to come out and jump start the van! This was also compounded by the fact that a couple of days earlier Stu had managed to blow up his MP3 player (don’t ask) – no tunes in the van or us! 
(
We did get ourselves to a nice campsite (the Cosy Cottage International Holiday Park) though which had it’s own hot tubs and hangi oven - very welcome when it’s wet and cold outside! Rotorura is a cool place (if not rather smelly) - we managed to do most of what we won’t cover when we visit again with Catherine and Karen (and had a bit of a rest). We wandered around the town and a couple of the parks (with the open ‘bubbling’ holes).
Wai-o-Taupo was an amazing place and we had a great time there (visiting it on the way to Taupo). Full of bubbling holes of mud, smelly sulphur holes and vast crevices of funny coloured water! Amazing place!
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We got up early on Wednesday morning for the long drive (by New Zealand standards) to Cape Reinga. This is (just about) the most northerly tip of New Zealand and is as windy and as remote as you might imagine. If you so desired, you could drive up ninety mile beach to the cape, but our insurance didn’t cover our rented van and the tide was a up, so we chickened out and took the main road. There is a DOC site on the beach there, which we had planned to stay at. It is wonderfully secluded and so far from anywhere. It was also pretty decent weather, but we had made such good time we were there by lunch so, after an hour on the beach we decided to hit the road again and head towards our next destination.
So we drove all the way south again, through Kaitaia, round Hokianga Harbour and stopped at the Okopako Lodge for the night. Less than 100km from our starting location but about 10 hours later. It was an absolutely lovely place that we stayed in. It was a working farm that they had built a bunkhouse onto and allowed campers to use. There was one other couple there and we shared a little old-fashioned kitchen (complete with the friendliest cat in the world) that overlooked the rolling fields and the harbour in the distance.
On Thursday morning we had a bit of a lie in and pancakes for breakfast, explored the area for a bit (not much to do but beautiful scenery) and then went South towards the Kauri forests, where we stayed for the night. These Kauri trees are enormous, which is probably why most of them have been chopped down for timber but they are protected now and somewhat of a tourist attraction.
Gem did most of the driving back down to Auckland and we had our fist experience of impromptu wine-tasting (many times repeated since). On the way into Auckland from the west there are a number of wineries around the Kumea valley and we (I, at least, as the non-driver) sampled a couple of these. Of course we had to buy a few to take back to the campsite so Gemma didn’t feel left out.
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After our first experience with proper camping, we drove the short distance to Whangarei. Although this is the biggest town in Northlands it is still pretty small and quiet. I used to live here when I was younger so I was hoping to recognise the town. I doubt it has changed much in the last 20-odd years but there was little I remembered. We were staying in a campsite just out past Tikipunga so we got to drive past our old house – things looked so much bigger when you are 8 years old!!! Unless you get out to the beach there is not all that much to do in Whangarei but we needed to hang around to watch a rugby match.
On Sunday morning we got up and went for a walk to the waterfall, had our usual picnic lunch (we are only just overcoming our cheese and bread cravings after being deprived in Asia) and then went to Okara Park the rugby in the afternoon (Northland v Manuata). We were planning to get the cheap tickets and sit on the hill but on the way we bumped into some nice bloke who was giving away free grandstand tickets – aparently there was some corporate thing going on and some people didn’t want their tickets. It was good to watch a game and it was a resounding home win which is always. We went for a beer after the match but seemed to be the only people in town so made an early night of it – we couldn’t even find a chippy open but managed to pick up a cheap and tasty curry and made use of the dvd player in our van.
On Monday,we drive the coastal route up to Russell; a pretty little town in the Bay of Islands. In the Summer it can get pretty hectic here but it was still early spring so just a quite little seaside town with a bit of history. We decided to stay over the other side of the bay in Paihia (just outside in a lovely little campsite by Harura falls). We came to the Bay of Islands to do the obligatory hole in the rock/dolphin cruise, which was great. within 20 minutes, we spotted a large pod of bottle nose dolphins. (Unfortunately), the pod had a baby with them so were not allowed to go swimming with them. Gem, I think, was quite please about this because the water was bloody cold and she was glad of an excuse not to have to get in. The rest of the cruise was really just a chance to see the beautiful bay and get told a little of the history (Captain Cook and all that).
We were running to a bit of a tight schedule, so we also managed to fit in a trip to Waitangi that afternoon for a history lesson about the Treaty of Waitangi (basically this was the Treaty that founded the nation of New Zealand as an agreement between the Maori and the British – partly to keep those pesky French out – the ramification of this Treaty are still going on today due to some sloppy translating etc.) and then back to our campsite for some tasty mutton chops and kumara (sweet potato to most people).
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We didn’t go far on our first day driving; we wanted to get out of Auckland, get ourselves acquainted with the van and sort our stuff our, rather then get into sightseeing and the van be in a disorganised mess.
So, on day one, we got as far as Waiwera, just 40km north of Auckland. There is a lovely little campsite here by the beach but more importantly it is next to a Thermal Springs / Water Park. I remember going here as a kid but when I told Gem there were thermal pools, she was expecting a natural pool with bubbling mud so was a little surprised to find normal swimming pools (except with naturally heated spring water). It is a good place to spend a relaxing afternoon; some of the pools are as hot as 40+ degrees but most more comfortable. There are also some rather hair-raising water slides, which haven’t changed in over 20 years. Still the same rickety wooden climb and still the same hip-bruising sharp bends.
After our first night in the van, we got up early and got back on the road, full of excitement for the day ahead. our next stop was another trip for me into nostalgia as we stopped off at Sheepworld. Only in New Zealand could entertainment possible include a sheep-shearing show but it was good fun and of course Gem volunteered to get up and have a go (and also to feed the little lambs – bless!)
We then hopped off Highway 1 and went up the beach road for an hour or so. In hindsight, we should have made a bit more distance that day but we wanted to stay at a DOC (Dept of Conservation) site for the night. They operate really basic and cheap campsite all around New Zealand, but the are often in the most beautiful locations. So on Friday, we got as far as Uretiti Beach, which was lovely and peaceful and next to a long white sand (and very windy) beach. It was pretty basic with cold water showers so one night was enough for us…
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Our flight to NZ was made exciting by the fact that the time difference meant that we had wine (a good kiwi sauvignon blanc) for ‘breakfast’! The pilot was very pleased to announce the recent sporting success over the ozzies (netball and rugby). We got to Auckland and managed to find our characterless hostel in the CBD and had some lovely pub food!
Our first job was to go van hunting. We had always thought we would buy a van as it seemed pretty easy to pick one up quite cheap. However, after first checking out the rental options and then having a look at what you can buy cheaply we quickly rethought our plans. Basically, what was for sale in our price range were 15-20 yr old transits fitted with a bit of plywood and a matress thrown ontop – not really what we had in mind to live in for 4 months. And we got a really good deal on a rental price on one of these.
Ok, a Spaceship may be very orange and it is not our own and we wont get any resale money on it, but we are paying winter prices for the whole season, it is really well designed and we don’t need to worry about trying to sell it at the end of our trip – we just drop it back into the office and get a bus to the airport.
We had to hang around for a couple of days to wait for our van to become available, which meant that we were still in Auckland for my birthday. Turning 30 was a relatively painless experiece. I got lots of cards from home, which was a pleasant surprise (very well orchestrated by Gemma) and then we went to the Domain for a picnic (do I need to mention it included a bottle of wine) and spend a very pleasant couple of hours wandering around Auckland Museum. I am a bit of a geek when it comes to things like this and it is a really great museum. We spent so long there that we didn’t get to see all the exhibits and have to go back next time we are in town. (I was spending too long looking at the animals and Maori stuff that we didn’t even get to the volcanoes). Then on the evening, Gem took me to an excellent seafood restaurant (The Harbourside). Shame our budget doesn’t extent to that every week!!
Then on Thursday morning, we picked up Picard, our Spaceship van and headed north…
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We had a great time in Australia but did spend a lot of time explaining to the Auzzies why we were only there for 1 1/2 weeks and we were going to NZ for 4 months – they just could not get their heads around it!
Anyhow, the first thing we did notice when we got to Oz was the drop in temp – but after getting used to it it was a nice change from the constant sweating we have had!
After an evening of winning a pub quiz and a day wandering around Sydney itself (wandering around the beautiful harbour and the Opera House and drooling at all the surf shops) we jumped into Lizzie’s Volvo and made our way to Broulee (4 hours south of Sydney) to her Granny’s beach house that the family use. Unfortunately, the traffic was bad so it took us about 6 hours to get there and we arrived late!
The next morning we awoke to the sound of the sea and a lovely sunny day. It was great in Broulee – eating pancakes (apparently you have to have them for breakfast every morning when you are there), playing beach cricket, walking around the nearby island and looking for interesting animals in rock pools, swimming (although the sea was far too cold for anyone to stay in for long) and visiting local quaint towns for sweets!
Phil and Lizzie also cooked some fab food for us while we were there- fresh seafood from the fish man and steak! In fact we were very sad to leave!
On getting back to Sydney we spend some time uploading pictures (and blogging). We also walked across Sydney harbour bridge which is just like the Tyne bridge but not as good – ;o). Some of the beaches around Sydney are fab – Manley is lovely (and has some good surf shops).
We also managed to meet up with some friends we had made on our Africa trek which was great – we went to Bondi bach with Maria, won (another) pub quiz one night and went out for dinner and drinks another night (this resulted in getting home at 3.30am but we were very pleased that we did not have work the next day – unlike our friends) Eck!
We also went out for a nice meal (and beers) for a pre 30th birthday celebration for Stu which was fun – thank you Stu’s parents for footing the bill!
On our last day in Oz we made it up to Palm Beach (where Home and Away is filmed), I got a picture at the surf club which I found very amusing. We saw dolphins in the water there and also saw Lote Tuqiri going to a very posh wedding.
Sydney is really a lovley city – a bit like Cape Town but a lot bigger, with less of an edge and with a transport system. I can see why Phil has settled there as well! There are some stunning views of the harbour.
Categories: Australia · beach
