Entries from December 2008
After our Glacial experience we had a long drive up the west coast to Motueka, a decent-ish sized town to the south of Abel Tasman National Park. On the way we stopped off so the girls could see the Pancake rocks of Punakaiki (having already seen them and because it was raining, we just sat in the car) and shop for jade in Greymouth. By the time we got to Motueka the weather had improved dramatically and we were able to have a bbq in the pleasant evening sunshine.
Unfortunately this wasn’t to last and the next morning we awoke to rain again and none of us wanted to venture out for our planned walk and postponed it till the next morning. That evening we met up with Catherine’s cousin and his family from Consett. It appears that this part of New Zealand has become an enclave for refugees from that small County Durham Steel town. We then went for a pint in the rather frightening “Southern Man” pub where we were accosted by a rather drunken and rough old woman. Karen and Catherine still have not got over the trauma.
Thankfully the weather did clear up and the next morning we did manage to go for a walk in the National Park. Due to a bit of faffing and indecision, we missed the mornings first water taxi but when we did get our lift we had a fabulous walk in the lovely sunshine, through the trees and beaches and coves that make this a superb place to spend a few hours (or days even if you have the time).
Because the walk was a day later than planned, we had to drive off to Blenheim in the afternoon. Stopping in Havelock for some mussels for tea, we didn’t arrive till quite late. Certainly too late to taste some of the famous Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. But never mind, there was plenty more time for wine tasting lo come…
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They don’t call this the Wet Coast for nothing. It is the second time we have been down here and the weather has not improved at all! We came up to coast leaving the sunshine of the Southern Alps behind and hitting rain just about as soon as we were in sight of the coast. After quite a long drive we made it to Franz Joseph ready to see the Glacier the next morning. Gem and I were booked onto the Half Day trip while the other girls were going to to the Heli-hike version.
When we arrived at the office were a bit sceptical. There was about 50 people all clamouring to get ready and we were herded through like cattle but once we were out and divided up into smaller groups it was great. Being as keen as we are, we got ourselves into the lead off group and after about a 45minute walk were were up to the glacier face. Again this is one of those things that is quite difficult to comprehend how big it is. You see it from the distance and it just registers as a chunk of ice until you have some think like a person standing at the bottom to give it some sort of perspective. Anyway, we put on our crampons an went up the face of the glacier. There is a whole group of guides and workers constantly cutting steps into the ice. It is such an active glacier that the route constantly need maintaining. Some part of the glacier move up to 4m a day which is pretty quick in glacial terms. It was quite a climb; the first part was really rocky but once we were over that, we had great views of the dramatic ice formations. our walk took us through deep ice gullies and a cave and it was a really good trip. It was of course raining for most of the time but apparently there was some serious rainfalls due for later on so we were just thankful we were not on the later trip.
On our way back down, we were expecting to find the others back in their cosy cabin, warming up with a cup of tea, but instead we passed them on our walk back to the bus!! Their helicopter trip had been cancelled by the weather and so they had joined the afternoon hike. Apart from the fact that we could have all gone together, we did feel sorry for them approaching the torrential rain. We met them in the pub for dinner later and they did look a bit of a sorry sight, but they had had a good trip despite all that and just needed a pint and a shower for it all to be good again.
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Gem and I went to pick up Catherine from Queenstown Airport and we had a little birthday dinner but otherwise a quiet night. Just a few beers at the campsite catching up with all the goings on from back home. On Tuesday we went down to the office to be picked up for our jetboating trip not at all worried that it was raining dreadfully – we were going to get wet anyway. When the guy told us that it had been called off, we thought he was joking but apparently the pilot needs to be able to see! Who would have thought? Our plans were only dashed temporarily though, as we would be back in Queenstown in a couple of days so could reschedule and move on to Te Anau.
We had an early night in Te Anau because we had an even earlier morning the next day. We wanted to go kayaking on Milford Sound and the only possible trip we could do was at 7.15 in the morning. As we had already booked our accommodation in Te Annau (about 2 hours from Milford), this meant being on the road by 5am. As it happened it wasn’t all that bad. It was a beautiful drive and the weather was perfect so we drove one of the most spectacular drives in the country as the sun was coming up. We do regret however not stopping for photos as it was not nearly so good on the way back.
Our kayaking trip on Milford Sound was brilliant. We somehow managed to hit Milford on a dry day – a very rare occurance so the view were spectacular. The trip was really well run and the guides (Jimmy and Dangerous Dave) were very good, if somewhat eccentric. It is impossible to describe just how gigantic the cliffs and surrounding scenery is and the photos can never do it justice. We were on the water for about 4 hours. When we reached the half way point the guides got out a thermos flask and gave us some cock and bull story about raro tea tht they had harvested – it tasted just like hot cordial to the rest of us (Gemma did belive it was special tea until someonw pinted out to her that it was hot squash). The wind had picked up and we were all getting a bit tired so the return journey was not looking so appealing and then Jimmy whipped out a sail and we all rafted together and attempted to sail back in. Initially this wasn’t very successful and most people gave up. But with perserverance and many fewer canoes we succcessfully managed to ride the wind all the way back to the port, even overtaking a few of the paddlers.
The journey back down Milford road took alot longer because we stopped so often to have a look at and photograph the views. It wasn’t as clear as the morning but it was still pretty spectacular. We drove in convoy all the way back to Queenstown arriving in time for dinner and went to the world famous Fergburger which justifiable lives up to its reputation. Undoubtedly the best burgers we have ever eaten. A couple of beers back in World bar so Gem and Karen could relive some amusing dancefloor incidents and a truly brilliant day was done.
We weren’t to leave Queenstown yet though, as the next morning we had our rescheduled Jetboating to do. This was a lot of fun. They put you into a supercharged boat and drive it through Skippers Canyon at about 80kmph getting as close to the rocks as possible and doing as many 360 turns as they could fit in (including one in the gorge itself). Much fun and laughter and I think Gem has turned into an adrenaline junkie. She is just revelling in all these silly activities and loves scaring herself…
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To quote Gemma (endlessly) the Skydiving was “amazing”. They were a really good outfit in Wanaka and made everybody feel totally at ease. Three was no hanging around and it really had the air of professionalism as well as being fun. I was waiting at the bottom (saving my money and time for other fun things. You can’t do everything in NZ but this was one thing Gem had always wanted to do.).
After such excitement what else do you do than to go for a breakfast of bacon eggs and a beer, so back it was into town before everyone had calmed down enough to move on to Queenstown. On the way into Queenstown we visited a couple more wineries. Chard Farm had some really good quality and reasonable wines (we just had to get a bottle of their bubbles) but Gibberston Valley was a bit mediocre and overly touristy, but they did have an attached cheesery.
Still high of adrenaline (and maybe a little alcohol – but sadly not for the driver) we passed by the Kawahau Bridge – the home of Bungy jumping. There were lots of firm commitments to jump that, as yet, remain to be fulfilled. I was going to do the Nevis Highwire (234m drop over Skippers Canyon) and had almost come to terms with the cost but then found it took up a half day excursion to go and do it and decided I didn’t want to do it that much Vic Falls Bridge was quite enough for me!!
Having already done the Skydiving, we now had a bit more time to relax and enjoy Queenstown. this pace is an adrenaline junkies paradise – you can do anything here to scare you witless (and make you bankrupt) but it is also a fun town in a beautiful location.
We went up the Gondola to one of the hills that overlooks the town. They have a really fun luge up there. Basically they stick you on little cart with some basic stearing and even more basic brakes and you race down this track they have constructed and then you get a chairlift back up again. It was a lot of fun and an excellent way to spend an hour or so.
That evening we went out for an excellent dinner at Captain’s Restaurant and then went for a few drink at World Bar. we had been given a few free drinks vouchers for there but they also sold cocktails in teapot which was quite fun (especially when you could get them free on the roll of a dice). That night lasting a little longer than intended (with Karen and Gemma witnessing a man attempting a back somersault in the club but not making it all the way and landing on his face – ouch). Monday was somewhat of a slow day where promises of Bungying were renaged upon but it was also when Catherine was due to join us after spending the week surfing with Lightening from Gladiators in Adelaide….
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After spending some time sorting out ourselves and our little van, we went to Christchuch airport to pick up Karen and Lydia. The rain was now throwing it down, so I am sure the cold came as a bit of a shock to them arriving from Qatar. Our promises that it had not been always like this did not reassure them completely!! After a cup of tea and a catch up we went into town for dinner and a beer but jetlag soon got the better of them and we retired early for the evening.
On Tuesday morning we had intended to drive up to Kaikoura to go swimming with Dolphins but they were fully booked so instead we decided to drive out to Akaroa on the Banks Peninsular and go swimming with the Hector’s Dolphins there. Not being so touristy as Kaikoura, they had space for the following morning. On the way out to Akaroa, we stopped for a cheeky bit of wine tasting and again at Barry’s Bay Cheese. It was really no hardship for Gem and I to do this again and we had a tasty picnic that afternoon – after 5 months in Asia, we still have not got over our fixation with good cheese and wine.
Bright and early on the next morning, I sent the girls off to go swimming with the Dolphins, while I went for an explore of the bays around the Peninsular. It was perhaps even colder than when we had swam with Seals last month but they had a great time. Although the Dolphins were toying with them a little by swimming away as soon as they got into the water and then coming back just as they got out again. Crafty little buggers these dolphins.
After an exciting morning, we then headed off back inland up towards Mount cook area. We loved it so much when we were there, we thought i would be the best thing to do on our way to Queenstown, so that night we stayed again at the lovely campsite by Lake Tekapo, by which time the sun had come out and we could have a bbq outside their luxury cabin – it is a bit of a treat for us to be able to use their facilities after spending so much time in our van.
By the time we got up for breakfast the next morning Karen had been for a run and Lydia had done some Yoga. They are still adjusting to NZ time and had been awake for ages (although cheeky afternoon naps might have added to that!). From Tekapo, we went straight up to Mt Cook national park and did the same walks that we had done the other week. The weather and the views were not so great but it is still lovely and it is good to get out and do a decent walk. we spent that night in quite a basic campsite just on the top of Lake Pukaki. It had a lovely log fire and was very quiet and peaceful until a school group arrived and ended that. But then they had drastically over estimated the amount of food they needed and supplied the whole campsite with chips and then gave us a massive bag of fruit. I had done a big pork joint of the bbq for the pork-deprived girls from Qatar so we were totally stuffed by the time we went to bed.
The other place that Gem and I had really loved was Wanaka, so we thought it would be worth taking the other two there for a night. On the way in we passed the airport and it was such a glorious day we thought: “why not do the skydiving here”. They were going to anyway and had planned it for Queenstown but it made sense to take advantage of the conditions and do it over Wanaka, so we went into the i-site and booked up for first thing the next morning. That afternoon was spent drinking coffee and eating cake in Kai Whakapai and they went off to get lost in the maze at Puzzling World.
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The week we had in Christchurch was a nice relaxing one (before Catherine, Karen and Lydia) joined us, for a whirlwind tour over the festive season. We did the usual sightseeing things like lunch at the Arts Centre, Christchurch Art Gallery (I still don’t get any art other than paintings) and Sumner beach (not warm enough for us to surf though). We also managed to do some Xmas shopping for each other and I loved sitting in Cathedral Square watching the street entertainers.
We also spent a few days on the Banks Peninsula staying one day at Akaroa (a very French influenced place) sampling some wine and cheese but failing to find a half decent public house. We also spent 3 very relaxing days at Okains Bay (a tiny place with a fantiastic campsite just behnd the beach in amongst pine trees). There was nothing much else to do apart from picnic on the beach, pick shellfish to eat (mussels and cockles) and read books. The campsite was very basic but so quiet and lovely.
On getting back to Christchurch, in time for Karen and Lydia’s arrival from Qatar, we cleaned the van, went shopping, got the van light fixed (all exciting stuff) and shopped and posted baby presents.
Looking forward to the next part of the trip as we are doing some really cool stuff with Catherine and Karen – in a weeks time I may be jumping out of a plane!
Categories: New Zealand
The drive to Mount Cook from Twizel was really cool – we got to a viewpoint on the way in time to see the clouds lift from the mountain in the morning.
The drive itself was also amazing – seeing all the honeysuckles growing by the side of the road (purple, pink and cream). Mount Cook village is nothing in itself to see (just a DOC office and a few lodges) but we were quick to get walking on the Hookers valley walk. Apart from the walk being a bit busier than we were used to (high season is on it’s way) the walk was great. Wading through rivers and not much walking up hills with some amazing views of Mount Cook and the lake at the end.
We had a nap in the sunshine (it was scorching) before setting off on another couple of walks. The first one taking us up to a viewpoint at Tasman Glaicier – Stu thought it was the best view he had seen in NZ (Mount Cook in the background, glacier with bit broken off and floating in the lake and then views of the planes beyond that)!
We then walked down to the lake where bits of the glacier were floating. We had a bit of a play round on them which was very cool in the very hot sunshine!
After a lovely day of walking and amazing scenery (maybe one of the best days so far in NZ) we headed to our next destination. We managed to find the free campsite on Lake Pukaki – absolutely beautiful setting with lots of bunny rabbits leaping around.
Lake Pukaki is such an amazing colour (like nothing I have ever seen before) – jut like topaz…..so lovely. The next day after having spent the evening and morning taking in the scenery we drove 1/2 hour down the road to Lake Tekapo (also another lovely lake but a deeper blue than the last). We got to the campsite on the lake surrounded by pine trees and decided (as it was such a fab and sunny day (again) to sit and chill for the day, which was lovely and in such a nice setting. We did do some walking around Lake Tekapo the next day – hiked all the way to the observatory on the top of the hill which gave us some fab views of the lake and through some very full sheep fields.
Later on that day we drove to a DOC site just ouitside of Gerladine which was lovely and relaxing. The sky in the night was amazing – you could see the milky way. I also loved being able to use our solar ’shower’ again.
We also found out the morning at lake Pukaki that we had become uncle and aunty – very exciting indeed but slightly frustrating as we could not ring home to get the gen as we were a bit in the sticks. Very exciting to have a niece but a bit gutted that we are not home to meet the new arrival!
Categories: New Zealand
We spent just a couple of days in Dunedin, mainly just catching up and stocking up our supplies. It’s a funny little place, playing up to its status of the Edinburgh of the South, with Scottish souvenir shops aplenty. In fact whoever designed this city just took an overlay of Edinburgh’s street map and placed it onto this part of Otago. Not taking into account the topography of the area, this has left them with officially the steepest street in the world.
On the Monday afternoon we did have alot of fun though. We signed up to the obligatory Beer and Chocolate Tour, which involved first a tour of the Cadbury’s World Chocolate Factory, where they proudly tell you about the New Zealand side of the chocolate giant and give you loads of free treats (but Perky Nana, what is that all about?). And then you go across the road to the Speights Brewery for an even better tour and an even better selection of freebies.We were going to have a sit-down meal but after the free-flowing beer we settled for some very reasonable and tasty fish and chips from the takeaway.
On Tuesday morning, we drove out to the Otago Peninsular, which wasn’t all that exciting but we did get to see an albatross. Then the weather came in so we headed off for our next destination…
On the way up North, we stopped in Moeraki to see some weird boulders. I don’t quite know what Rough Guide got so excited about, they were just some big round pebbles in the sand, but quite cool to check out as we were passing.
We also popped into an excellent cheese factory (Evansdale) to buy some of their lovely produce. Once we turned off the coast road and headed inland, the weather cleared up and we were treated to some beautiful scenery and one of the most pleasant drives we have done so far in NZ. Gem was driving this leg and I was happy just staring out the window for a couple of hours. Eventually, after a long day of (albeit pleasant) driving, we arrived in Twizel. The town itself is not all that much, but it granted us easy access to Mount Cook National Park, which we were to explore the next day. It may have been a nice day but up here at a moderate altitude it got pretty cold at night.
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